Test Cosmetic Products with TA.XTPlus Texture Analyzer - Texture Analyser



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COSMETIC PRODUCT TESTING

Much of the cosmetics industry, and particularly all of the major players, have adopted the TA.XTPlus family of Texture Analysers for quantifying the characteristics of their products. The TA.XTPlus Texture Analyser can quantify the

Hardness: lipstick, lip balm, wax, false nails, soaps, creams, eye shadows
Break Strength: lipstick, eye liner, lip liner
Combability & Bend Strength of hair before and after conditioning and treatments

Compaction Strength of eye shadow, face powders
Container lid opening force
Actuation force of pumps/sprays
Consistency: moisturising cream, paste

Friction: cosmetic applications, exfoliators
Spreadability: creams, face mask formulae
Stickiness & curing of nail lacquers
Tube Extrusion energy & behaviors

Texture traditionally has been assessed, or analyzed, through human sensory analysis: smell, sight, taste, sound and touch. But these methods are subject to wide variability, even when using trained assessors. The use of instruments to measure texture defines and improves controlled conditions and enhances test accuracy, quantification and repeatability.

Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine in September 2006 (page 69) recently featured and article by Janus Jachowicz and Jo Smewing on "Using Texture Analysis to Substatiate Hair Care Claims". Please contact Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine to obtain the full article. The article abstract: "Texture analysis provides quantitative information about a material’s response when deformed by a controlled force. When texture analysis is applied to hair treated with various conditioners and styling fixatives, the results can help substantiate claims made about the effectiveness of these hair care products.

For manufacturers wanting to differentiate their products and substantiate their claims, texture analysis is a valuable tool. Scientific texture analysis provides quantifiable, repeatable and accurate data on the physical properties of food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical and chemical products. It is now an established procedure in research and a valuable tool in the quest for improved quality control methods. This article describes the use of texture analysis to substantiate claims in hair care by testing treated hair samples."

Lipstick Hardness is an important determination and is described in the ASTM Standard Method of Test D1321-95 which specifies the use of a needle penetration test. Besides determining lipstick hardness, this test may also indicate the presence of unwanted trapped air bubbles, or a "grainy" texture as a result of either incomplete colorant dispersion or the working and chilling processes during manufacture.Cone/cylinder/needle probe

Example Probes & Applications:

Small Diameter Cylinder Probes The test shown above can indicate the presence of air pockets beneath the sample surface, which may be undesirable, and the optimal pressing time and weight of e.g. eyeshadow and compressed face powders	Hair Care Rig SMS has developed a hair combing rig to quantify the energy and behavior of different treatments on hair trusses of variable lengths.	Lipstick Break Strength This cantilever test provides both imitative and empirical results in one test. Action is provided by a hemispherical edged blade which simulates the bending action caused during application.
Gel Testing A standard test for gels involves using a 10 mm diameter acrylic probe to assess the firmness and other characteristics of gels in a bloom jar (as shown)	Tube Extrusion Testing A method of meauseing the energy to open or close or disperse materials from their containers.	Eye Pencil Rig The test shown above provides the means to quantitatively measure the Hardness of pencil tips such as those for eye- or liplining products. Results will assess such process variables as the modification of wax content or product quality as a result of extreme temperature conditions.
Back/Forward Extrusion Rig Consistency of e.g. moisturising cream, can be assessed by either a forward extrusion test (simulating the force required to extrude the sample by the consumer) or a backward extrusion test which will give an indication	Cone/cylinder/needle probe A standard test such as ASTM Dl 321 -95 using a needle probe or ASTM D937-92 using a conical probe provides a means of measuring the firmness or consistency of waxes and is also suitable to assess the hardness of soap and similar products (as shown).	Actuation Force Testing A method of meauseing the energy to open or close or disperse materials from their containers.